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® Copyright Embassy of
Kazakhstan in Malaysia
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Eat... |
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Like the construction, the restaurant scene in Astana develops on a daily basis. Since 2005 the choice of restaurant available has expanded rapidly and will continue to do so with the opening of a host of new restaurants in the coming months. There are even rumours that Arkady Novikov, Moscow’s Conran, will shortly be opening his first restaurant in the city.
The most noticeable feature about eating out in Astana is the high proportion of themed restaurants. Kazakhstan’s location at the heart of Eurasia, linking East and West, is reflected in the types of restaurant and the food available – a large number of |
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restaurants offer both a European and an Asian menu, and interiors, waiters and waitresses who will be dressed to match. Many of these restaurants are chains that you will recognize from Almaty, with identikit interiors. These kitrestaurants will soon be augmented by the opening of six new venues on Sary Arka Street on the Left Bank offering Georgian, Russian, Swedish Korean, Uzbek and Ukrainian food – all the old favourites of world cuisine then. Of the established restaurants, our favourites are La Riviere (below), a large yellow building located, as its name suggests, by the river on the Left Bank at the entrance to the Central Park, offering very good French cuisine. Across the park on Sary Arka Prospect, another favourite is the Japanese restaurant Mori, and on the Right Bank, Tiflis offers tasty Georgian fare and a lively atmosphere in the evenings. |
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| Click links to view the details. |
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Astana Nur, 3/2 Respublik Avenue, AREA |
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Derby Bar & Grill, 8 Irchenko Street, AREA |
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East-West, 2/2 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, AREA |
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Egorkino, 93 Auezov Street, AREA |
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Farhi, 3 Bokeikhan Street (just off Kenesary), AREA |
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Izymi, 32 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, Kruglaya Ploshad |
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Korolevskaya Ohota, Near the Eurasia 2 Trade Centre, Microdistrict 4 |
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La Riviere, 2 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, AREA |
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Line Brew, 20 Kenesary Street, AREA |
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Mori, 3 Sary Arka Avenue, AREA |
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Pivovaroff, 24 Beibitshilik Street, AREA |
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Satti, 32 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, Kruglaya Ploshad |
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Tiflis, 14 Imanov Street (between Respublik and Valikhanov), AREA |
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Tre Kronor, 17 Sary Arka Avenue, AREA |
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Vaquero, 5 Beibitshilik Street (just off Kenesary), AREA |
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Venezia, 9 Beibitshilik Street, 1st Floor, Sine Tempore Shopping Mall, AREA |
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Zhibek Zholy, 102 Abai Avenue (Valikhanov), AREA |
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Astana Nur, 3/2 Respublik Avenue, AREA
Tel : 223 922 or 223 366
Open : Daily, 11am–last guest
6,000 tenge
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| Caucasian / European |
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| Although the address says that Astana Nur (which translates as Astana Central – don’t confuse it with the Central Mosque – Nur Astana) is located on Respublik Avenue, it is actually located just behind Respublik on the footpath running along the bank of the River Ishim. In fact,Astana Nur is the only restaurant in Astana both overlooking the river and capitalising on this position. In the summertime, sit on the covered terrace and watch people splashing about in canoes and paddleboats below. The view is especially good at sunset and afterwards as the lights of new Astana come on over the water. Astana Nur serves up both Caucasian and European food and is renowned for offering more than twenty types of plov (traditional pilaf) and nearly fifty types of shashlik (kebabs). While it attracts a more elite crowd in winter, in the summer the terrace is packed out with an eclectic mix of people who come to enjoy the river at the heart of their city. |
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Food 8 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 9 |
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Derby Bar & Grill, 8 Irchenko Street, AREA
Open : Daily, noon–2am
5,000 tenge
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| European / Japanese |
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| With English hunting scenes lining the walls, dark wood-panelled partitions enclosing the tables, and armchairs upholstered in leather, the Derby Bar & Grill aims for classic English style. Yet despite the English theme, the menu is actually European and Japanese with ingredients flown in from all over the world. The Director, Elena Mendina, is a trained sommelier and can provide excellent pairing advice from Derby’s international wine list. As with many of Astana’s restaurants, live music starts at 8pm on most nights: saxophone from Tuesdays to Thursdays and jazz on Fridays and Saturdays. If you’d rather eat in peace, it’s best to choose a Monday or Sunday – although the music is great if you’re in a party mood. Derby Bar & Grill’s sophisticated interior and enviable position in the same building as the Radisson means that it attracts a good portion of the local elite and embassy crowd, and it has a river view to boot. |
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Food 7 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 7 |
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East-West, 2/2 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, AREA
Tel : 243 054
Open : Daily, noon–midnight
3,500 tenge
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| Indian / Italian / Kazakh |
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| Designed to bring East and West together in the heart of Eurasia, there’s no mistaking the concept behind this restaurant. Partitioned into different sections, you can choose to dine in one of three areas: Kazakh, Indian or Italian and once seated you can then choose from a variety of cuisines: Kazakh, Russian, Chinese, Indian or Italian – each with its very own colour-coded menu (quite possibly Astana’s longest). Despite the baffling number of choices on offer, East-West, which stands on the banks of the River Ishim by the bridge connecting Respublik Avenue with Kabanbai Baytr, is actually one of Astana’s best restaurants with simple, delicious food cooked up by Indian executive chef, Sunil Gopal. According to Gopal, it’s the Kazakh potatoes that make the gnocchi so mouth-wateringly good, and when you find yourself eating this Italian dish while sitting underneath the crown of a yurt in the restaurant’s Kazakh corner, it isn’t hard to believe. Surreal but worth a visit. |
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Food 8 |
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Service 8 |
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Atmosphere 7 |
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Egorkino, 93 Auezov Street, AREA
Tel : 32 38 78
Website :
www.egorkino.kz
5,500 tenge
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| Russian |
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| One of Astana’s most popular restaurants, Egorkino is, at nine years old, almost as old as the capital itself. There is no mistaking the fact that Egorkino is a traditional Russian restaurant, its nooks and crannies are filled with a riot of Russian trinkets – be they small reed shoes, traditional Russian printed curtains, antique chests, or red, black and gold painted enamel wooden mugs. The food is tasty and filling, (try ‘Granny’s Snack’ – potato and onion cooked with sala or pork lard) although not the place to come if you’re trying to slim. The Russian waiters and waitresses wear traditional dress and the service is attentive. In the background, you will be treated to some old favourite Russian folk songs such as Kalinka Kalinka interspersed with Russian classics from the seventies and eighties. Drink a few shots of vodka, and you’ll soon find yourself singing along. |
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Food 7 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 8 |
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Farhi, 3 Bokeikhan Street (just off Kenesary), AREA
Tel : 321 899 or 320 406
Open : Daily, noon–last guest
5,000 tenge
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| Kazakh |
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| Opened in 1999, Farhi was the first national Kazakh restaurant in Astana – a fact that was significant enough to ensure that the President himself cut the ribbon. Circular in shape and designed to look like the interior of a Kazakh yurt, albeit one with a disco ball hanging from the ceiling, Farhi serves up some of the best traditional food in town, including solyanka (a traditional broth based soup) with horsemeat, which is surprisingly tasty. True to local form, however, the restaurant does not stop at traditional food, also offering Japanese cuisine including sushi and even, to round off your meal, Yamazaki single malt whisky. In the summer, the adjoining vine-covered terrace becomes the outside restaurant Ali Baba, which also serves traditional Central Asian food, with perhaps more of an emphasis on Uzbek cuisine. As Astana’s first traditional restaurant, and given the Kazakh’s predilection for their own food, Farhi is always full, guaranteeing an atmospheric experience. |
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Food 7 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 7 |
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Izymi, 32 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, Kruglaya Ploshad
Tel : 242 723
Open : Daily, noon–last guest
8,000 tenge
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| Japanese |
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| A sister-restaurant to neighbouring Satti, Izymi has a Japanese menu and waitresses sporting kimonos and obi sashes with chopsticks in their hair. Based on its location at the heart of the Left Bank, the restaurant is very popular on weekdays and slightly less busy at weekends. Izymi attracts a chic local crowd in the evenings that come to enjoy some of Astana’s best sushi and chat in the quiet, sophisticated surroundings. The minimalist Japanesestyle interior offers just eight tables to guests, so get there early if you want to ensure yourself a place. Plans for expansion include a softer, chill-out room next door. |
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Food 8 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 8 |
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Korolevskaya Ohota, Near the Eurasia 2 Trade Centre, Microdistrict 4
Tel : 34 18 17
Open : Daily, noon–midnight
12,000 tenge
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| Eclectic |
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| Despite its odd location at the back of the giant Eurasia shopping centre in microdistrict number four, Korolevskaya Ohota (which translates as the Royal Hunt) is one of Astana’s smartest restaurants and the haunt of the super-elite. Serving up trophies of the hunt like venison, quail, duck and wild boar, this is the place to go if you want to indulge in high-class company. The décor, which is reminiscent of a medieval baron’s castle, is complemented by a wide variety of taxidermied animals, some of which, disconcertingly, also appear on the menu. Thankfully, though, the grizzly that greets you with outstretched claws at the door doesn’t make it to your plate. |
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Food 6 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 8 |
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La Riviere, 2 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, AREA
Tel : 242 260
Open : Daily, noon–midnight
10,000 tenge
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| European |
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| La Riviere stands out amongst Astana’s restaurants – partly because of its position on the banks of the Ishim River in an elegant, classically designed building but more compellingly because of the sophistication that this ‘small island of France’ exudes. Opened in 2001, La Riviere offers mouthwatering European cuisine, complemented by an extensive and very impressive wine list. Add to that the stylish blue, white and gold interior laden with chandeliers and crowned by a small glass mosaic dome, and you can see why it’s not hard to enjoy yourself in such refined surroundings. The sophistication pays dividends: many government delegations frequent La Riviere. (This means, though, the restaurant has had to branch out into traditional food as well; it seems that a Kazakh is not long parted from his besparmak.) La Riviere must be complimented on its attention to detail (from the silver tea trolley serving fresh tea and dried apricots to the Coco Chanel perfume in the loo), and we’re happy to report that they also brew the best café latte in town. |
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Food 9 |
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Service 9 |
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Atmosphere 9 |
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Line Brew, 20 Kenesary Street, AREA
Tel : 236 373 or 237 444
Website :
www.line-brew.kz
Open : Daily, noon–last guest
6,000 tenge
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Grill /
Steakhouse |
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| Like its counterpart in Almaty, Line Brew’s interior is a gothic castle with coats of armour welcoming you at the door – a fitting way to set the scene before toasting the night away to some of the 24 Belgian beers they have on tap. From the outside, however, Astana’s Line Brew is completely different. Built on the site of one of the city’s former fire stations, the restaurant has incorporated the old red brick tower, which now houses (at the top) a circular VIP room complete with karaoke facilities – perhaps an opportunity to sing like Rapunzel for your prince? As one of Kazakhstan’s established brands, Line Brew is very popular with both locals and foreigners and even, they say, with the President. With its roaring central fire powered by saksaul, a desert tree which burns slowly and is the ultimate barbequeuing fuel, take your pick of steaks or shashlyk and know that you will be well served…and well fed. |
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Food 8 |
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Service 8 |
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Atmosphere 8 |
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Mori, 3 Sary Arka Avenue, AREA
Tel : 241 024
Open : Daily, noon–midnight
14,000 tenge
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| Japanese |
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| The highly attractive Mori is exclusively Japanese – a point well worth noting in a city where just about every menu promises every type of cuisine. (It’s nice knowing your sushi chef isn’t also preparing fresh gnocchi.) Offering sushi and the only teppanyaki kitchen in Astana, Mori uses Japanese minimalism to demonstrate that less is definitely more. Cushioned armchairs, bamboo Venetian blinds and dark oriental chests make the restaurant both pleasant and unique in a city full of kit restaurants. Located in the Left Bank’s Caspi Sports Complex on Sary Arka Avenue, it’s well placed if you’re staying at the Radisson or some of the Right Bank’s smaller hotels. Mori’s stylish interior and delectable Japanese food isn’t lost on the locals either, they flock here in droves to enjoy such delicacies as the Kobe beef, lobster, prawns and scallops that are cooked on the teppanyaki table in front of them. Busy every night, it’s worth booking if you want to ensure a table. Alternatively come for lunch (noon–2pm) when it’s slightly less busy and order a bento lunch special for only 3,800 tenge. |
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Food 8 |
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Service 8 |
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Atmosphere 8 |
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Pivovaroff, 24 Beibitshilik Street, AREA
Tel : 328 866 or 321 981
Open : Daily, noon–2am
3,500 tenge
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| German |
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| This German style beer house brews its own beer and is one of the most popular beer restaurants (yes – there are quite a few) in Astana, attracting a lively crowd throughout the day and into the evening. Owned by a German who splits his time between Kazakhstan and Germany, Pivovaroff brews two alcoholic and one non-alcoholic type of beers in the giant copper vats situated in the restaurant’s back room. The basement location and exposed brick walls is more reminiscent of a Munich beer cellar, an illusion strengthened after ordering Pivovaroff’s tasty German sausages. The restaurant’s popularity is cemented by the friendly Malian manager, Idris, who arrived in Astana to study and hasn’t left yet. |
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Food 7 |
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Service 8 |
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Atmosphere 7 |
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Satti, 32 Kabanbai Batyr Avenue, Kruglaya Ploshad
Tel : 242 848
Open : Daily, noon–last guest
6,000 tenge
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| European |
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| Satti is one of several restaurants located in the improbably named Round Square situated at the KazMunaiGas end of the Central Boulevard on the Left Bank. Mainly due to its location, Satti attracts top government ministers and the business elite, while maintaining a relaxed and intimate atmosphere. The building is circular in design so that the candlelit tables all look on to a central stage, which is the focal point for a daily music and dance show at 8pm. The food, which is European with a smattering of Kazakh, is tasty, and the restaurant’s pastel-toned, contemporary Islamic design works well. In the summer, the restaurant expands in the form of a tented village on the roof; although less sophisticated, it’s a good place to come for shashlik and a view of the Central Boulevard – especially at night when it’s set alight. |
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Food 6 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 6 |
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Tiflis, 14 Imanov Street (between Respublik and Valikhanov), AREA
Tel : 221 226
Open : Daily, noon–2am
4,000 tenge
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| Georgian |
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Many restaurants in Astana have an admirable way of seeming more like a small village than a restaurant, and Tiflis is no exception. Taking the medieval name of the capital of the Caucasian republic, this Georgian restaurant is buzzing with energy, much like Tiflis (or Tbilisi) itself. Visit in the evening and the atmosphere (on the first floor at least) will be boosted by Tamara, an ethnic Georgian living in Kazakhstan, who sings Georgian folk songs with a bit of Russian, Armenian and Kazakh thrown in. If you’d rather have a more
discreet meal, climb the stairs with carved wooden banisters and dine in the slightly quieter upstairs room. The food, in true Georgian style, is delicious with a varied menu, although be warned that not everything you want is always readily available. The khachapuri, Georgian bread filled with suluguni cheese, comes in a number of guises and pomegranate seeds are liberally distributed throughout the appetisers. In the summer, there is a more informal café outside, and if you want to do things the traditional Georgian way, order your very own Tamada, or Georgian host, to complete your dining experience. |
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Food 8 |
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Service 8 |
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Atmosphere 8 |
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Tre Kronor, 17 Sary Arka Avenue, AREA
Tel : 402 025
Open : Daily, noon–last guest
4,500 tenge
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| Swedish |
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| Named after the national emblem of Sweden, Tre Kronor (or Three Crowns) is a Swedish style beerhouse on Astana’s Left Bank that was opened in summer 2007. One of six new restaurants that will ultimately open on this stretch of road, Tre Kronor embraces a wider European remit than its name suggests with its German bratwurst sausages (a house specialty) on the menu and Dutch Breughel murals on the walls. The waiters, however, stick to the Swedish theme, wearing traditional Swedish country dress. Tre Kronor does what a beer house should, providing a wide range of ales on tap, as well as using it to flavour its menu. Adjacent to the restaurant and upstairs, is a nightclub that was opened in September 2007. With its Latvian DJ and three circular levels connected with a spiral staircase, guests can relax in plush sofas set against a golden interior watching others dance the night away on the lower level dance floor. |
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Food 6 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 7 |
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Vaquero, 5 Beibitshilik Street (just off Kenesary), AREA
Tel : 390 121
Open : Daily, noon–2am (5am Fri/Sat)
5,000 tenge
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| Eclectic |
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| Vaquero, which brings a little bit of the Wild West to Astana (not that Kazakhstan’s new capital is lacking a frontier mentality), is a popular place to hang out among the Cowboys and Indians, wolf-skins, and Aztec inspired columns. Offering Italian, Mexican, Argentinean and European food, there is definitely something for everybody, although the fajitas, tortillas, tacos and burritos are the house specialties. Pronounced ‘Vac-you-aero’ in Russian, this restaurant is popular with a young, hip set who crowd onto the denim-covered bar stools at the weekends. In fact, the restaurant’s popularity has prompted the owners to consider starting a chain, with new branches opening soon in Almaty, Karaganda and Atyrau. |
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Food 6 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 7 |
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Venezia, 9 Beibitshilik Street, 1st Floor,
Sine Tempore Shopping Mall, AREA
Tel : 753 906
Open : Daily, 11.30am–3pm and 6–11pm
4,500 tenge
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| Italian |
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| Astana’s only dedicated Italian restaurant,Venezia is located in the same building as the Sine Tempore shopping mall on the old square, although the entrance is on Kenesary Street. Giant murals of Canaletto’s Venice line the yellow marbled walls, and greenery is abundantly positioned throughout the restaurant. The classical piano music in the evening is the perfect complement to the genuine Italian food, much of which – salami, prosciutto, parmigiano, beef, fish and rice – has been imported from Italy to ensure its quality. The buffet lunch is highly recommended, partly because of the delicious antipasti and cheeses but also because it’s only 2,200 tenge. The Italian chef, who has been working in the restaurant since 2001 makes Astana’s best risotto with flavours ranging from artichoke to parmesan and truffles. It’s no surprise that Venezia is a favourite among the city’s diplomatic community. |
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Food 8 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 7 |
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Zhibek Zholy, 102 Abai Avenue (Valikhanov), AREA
Tel : 210 507
Open : Daily, noon–2am
6,500 tenge
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| Eclectic / International |
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With its name meaning Silk Road (Zhibek Zholy), you won’t be surprised to find a mixture of Chinese, Kazakh, Uzbek and international dishes on on the menu. To complement its Silk Road cuisine, the restaurant is elaborately designed into different sections; the downstairs is a bright white Uzbek hall with giant Persian miniatures and Islamic arches decorating the walls, while upstairs is Kazakh themed complete with columns in the shape of bal bals (stone figures found on burial mounds on the steppe) and petroglyphs (rock carvings). The VIP room takes on a Chinese style with a portrait of Mao 180 181 Zedong emblazoned on a carpet hanging on one side of the room. There’s even a Moroccan section (even though there’s no Moroccan food) with plush pillows and filigree lanterns hanging from above – again creating the
‘something for everything’ feeling that pervades most of Astana’s dining establishments. |
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Food 7 |
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Service 7 |
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Atmosphere 7 |
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